The parts I list below are parts you can’t just go to your local hardware store to buy. These are items that will help you in your quest to make your restoration job a bit easier, saving you time and frustration.

******Now available!******

1947-55 1st Series Chevy pickup Vent Window “T” Pivot Post

On the left is an original GM pivot post and on the right is a common example of how badly these can rust out.
Here is an example of the pivot post I make. These are not mass-produced overseas. I make them here in Oregon by hand. They are quite difficult to produce and specific to the left and right side glass frames. After the parts are machined, I weld them together with stainless MIG wire, so all parts are stainless steel to prevent rust in the future.

This is the post that is inserted into the bottom of the vent window glass frame. I restore a lot of these vent windows for customers and many times they are so rusted that they almost fall apart. I am in the process of reproducing this piece in great detail and also in stainless steel so this won’t be an issue in the future. In this kit, I will be including the proper stainless steel semi-tubular rivets and the tool for installation. The posts are different from right to left so you will need to specify which side you need. Now ready to ship! $25 each and right and left sides are different so make sure to order accordingly.

You can order these by contacting me through my email address: or call me at (541) 405-8286.

1947-53 and 1954-55 1st Series Chevy pickups Standoff Nuts

I am now selling these 303 stainless steel standoff nuts for use under the dash of the 1947-53 and 1954-55 1st series Chevy pickups. If you have ever taken out the dash gauges or radio speaker plates on one of these trucks, you know the frustration of trying to get to the tiny 10-32 hex nuts holding these gauges and speaker plates in place. First, you have to be on your back on the floor of the cab, then you have to try to find the studs while contorting your body under the dash. Once you do find the studs, you need to get a nut driver or ratchet on to them while trying to maneuver around the firewall brace. This is one of the most frustrating jobs I encounter when working on these pickups! I absolutely hate having to remove the gauges because these nuts are so difficult to deal with.

Note: I can make the stainless steel standoff nuts I have work for the 54-55 1st series pickups by rethreading the 10-32’s I have to 10-24 thread, which is the thread size on the 54-55 1st series pickup. I can’t seem to find anyone making the 10-24 SS standoff nuts.

The Solution to making this job more manageable:

1947-53 Pickups: #10-32 x 1″, 3/8″ Female Hex Standoff, 303 Stainless Steel 

Throw the original dash nuts away and replace them with these nuts when you reinstall the gauges or dash trim plates! Believe me, you will thank me the next time you have to remove these items! You can start these nuts by hand and easily reach them to tighten them up with a small wrench or socket. You can even just screw them down hand-tight if you don’t want to mess with a wrench.

I sell the 47-53 Stainless standoff nuts for $5 each , and the 54-55 1st series Zinc plated Steel (can’t find stainless in this 10-24 thread) for $1.50 each, plus shipping (I know, they are expensive, but they are well worth the money)

I use 10 of these on 47-53 Chevy pickups, 8 for the gauges and 2 for the hard to reach area next to the ashtray. You can even use them for all of the studs under the dash, but these 10 studs are the most difficult to access, so order at least 8-10 of them.

For 1954-55 1st series pickups: Zinc plated steel, 10-24 thread, 3/4″ long, $1.50 each. 1954-55 1st series pickups use 3 per gauge.

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They are also handy if you need a grounding stud under the dash by screwing a 10-32 screw into it once it is installed.

You can order these by contacting me through my email address: or call me at (541) 405-8286.

You can purchase aluminum standoff nuts on Amazon:

You can also order the aluminum nuts in a male/female style from Amazon if you want to just use a nut to attach your ground wire.



1951-55 1st Series Chevy Pickup Vent Window Handle Striker Plates now available!

These striker plates are almost always rusted and nasty on original vent windows so we’ve made the decision to reproduce them. If you are going to rebuild your vent windows, you will probably want to replace these. They have not been available in the past. Previously I have been getting these plates show-chromed so I can install them on vent windows that I rebuild so now I can offer them two ways:

*** OEM striker plate “show-chromed” with the proper semi-tubular rivets included @ $20 each .

*** (NEW ITEM) Reproduction “flash chromed” striker plate with the proper semi-tubular rivets included @ $10 each. Now available!

Shipping is extra.

You can order these by contacting me through my email address: or call me at (541) 405-8286.

Self Drilling Screws

Pan head vs. Flat Head

The screws I use to install the felt window channels and small beltline scrapers for the windows are these small self-drilling screws I get on eBay or The Filling Station. On eBay you have to buy the pan head screws at 100 pcs. or more. They work great for installing these felt pieces and makes installing them a snap. Either of these screws will work but the flat head screws are more prone to pulling through some felt channels or strips. The pan head screws will have a better contact area and as long as you sink the head snugly into the knap of the felt, there should be no contact to the glass. You can buy these in Philips flat-head or pan head in stainless steel from The Filling Station individually. Their part numbers are FS-5656P (pan head) and FS-5656F (flat head). Call The Filling Station to order: 800-841-6622, or you can by the pan head or flat head screws in on eBay at the link below, but you have to buy 100-250+ of them at a time.

Pan head Self-Drilling screw, #6 x 3/8“, STAINLESS,  eBay link:
Flat head Self-Drilling Screw -Zinc plated- eBay Link:

Don’t be confused between the terms “Self-Drilling” and “Self Tapping” screws! The “self-drilling” screws have a “drill bit” tip and don’t need a pilot hole to start in the metal. You just use your drill driver and a Phillips bit to drive them in and once they are set, you’re done! The self -tapping screws don’t have this drill bit tip and need a pilot hole to get started, then once the pilot hole is created, the screw will make its own thread in the sheet metal.

Note: If you are concerned about the pan head type screw hitting the glass, choose the flat head type screw. The down-side to the flat head style is that they may not hold the felt as well as the pan head screw. In most cases the pan head screw will bury itself deep enough in the felt knap to avoid touching the glass, but it can happen. If it does happen, you can grind the head of the pan head screw slightly to reduce the height of the head. Listen for any “grinding” sound when rolling up your window. If you hear anything, locate the screw making the sound and use a Dremel grinder (or similar) to reduce the head height so it clears the glass.